Dorade in the Salt Crust—or: When the Cricket Falls into the Water

Two unusually large, fresh sea bream—about 1.8 kilograms in total—were originally intended for the grill. When the weather turned stormy, they were instead prepared in the oven using a reliable salt-crust method. The crust traps moisture and gently steams the fish, producing tender, juicy flesh with subtle flavors of lemon, herbs, and sea salt.

Ingredients

Serves 2 generously or 4 with side dishes.

• 2 large whole sea bream, about 800 grams each, gutted but not scaled
• 1 organic lemon, washed and sliced
• 1 handful fresh herb sprigs, such as thyme, rosemary, mint, sage, tarragon, or oregano
• About 3–4 kilograms coarse sea salt
• Water, for moistening the salt
• Good olive oil, for serving

Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 250°C.
2. Rinse the fish thoroughly under cold running water, then pat them dry.
3. Fill each fish cavity with lemon slices and mixed fresh herbs.
4. Cover a large baking tray with foil. Spread a layer of coarse sea salt approximately 1 centimeter thick over the tray.
5. Lightly spray or sprinkle the salt with water and press it down. Place the fish on top.
6. Cover the fish completely with a thick layer of coarse salt. No part of the fish should remain visible. Moisten the salt and press it firmly into place.
7. Bake on the middle oven rack for about 30 minutes. Smaller fish may need only around 20 minutes.
8. Remove the tray from the oven and let the fish rest for 5–10 minutes. Resting helps the crust separate more cleanly.

Opening the Salt Crust

1. Carefully crack the hardened crust with a knife or small kitchen mallet.
2. Lift away the crust in sections, taking care not to scatter salt onto the exposed flesh.
3. Remove the skin, which may come away with the crust.
4. Discard the lemon and herbs from the cavity.
5. Lift off the upper fillet, remove the backbone, and then release the lower fillet from the skin. Check carefully for remaining bones.
6. Serve immediately.

Serving Suggestions

The fish can be served simply with a drizzle of fruity, mild olive oil. When serving four people, suitable accompaniments include boiled new potatoes, green beans, young peas, or crusty bread.

Useful Notes

• The method also works with other varieties of whole fish.
• The flesh must not touch the salt directly. Intact skin and scales help protect it from becoming excessively salty.
• Water is sufficient to bind the crust; egg whites, whole eggs, and flour are unnecessary.
• It is better to remove the fish slightly early than to overcook it because it continues cooking beneath the hot crust while resting.
• Wrap and discard the used salt, fish skin, and trimmings promptly, especially in warm weather.